Die "Pflege" der Mikroflora oder ...

[nik]

Hallo Kolja,

Hallo Nik,

an ein paar Tage mit Pflanzen habe ich dabei eigentlich nicht gedacht. Würde die Pflanzen dadurch ja nur schwächen.
Ich dachte da schon an ein paar Wochen ohne Pflanzen. Sauerstoffeintrag durch Oberflächenbewegung und ab und zu etwas Futter rein um das Becken auf eine gewisse organische Belastung vorzubereiten.
Die Überlegung hinter dieser Idee ist für mich halt wie kann möglichst sicher eine gute Mikroflora etablieren ohne diese zu importieren.

Gruß Kolja

ach so, das wäre dann ja im Grunde genau wie mein beschriebenes, pflanzenloses Mini M.

Weiß nicht, ob ich das Bild schon hatte. Schau mal, so sah das zeitweise aus, insgesamt trotz ML/SB und-/NO II wohl algenfrei, mich aber nur mäßig überzeugend. Die Kieselalgen rechne ich nicht zu den problematischen Algen, die hätte ich schon nicht in dem Umfang erwartet, das ist weiters egal, aber siehst du z.B. die Blasen an der Wasseroberfläche? War nicht dolle und bekam erst Richtung als ich etwa 5 halblange Stängel aus meinem gut laufenden Cube drei Tage lang treiben ließ.


Ein Becken jungfräulich aufzusetzen ist so oder so nicht ohne! Im Grunde kannst du nur versuchen erstmal ein Einbringen irgendwelcher Plagen zu vermeiden. Bei dem Becken war das gewaschener Sand, abgekochte Steine, Special Blend und Nite Oute II. In vitro Pflanzen zusätzlich machten dann einen vernachlässigbaren Unterschied. Das geht aber grundsätzlich, das hatte ich mit meinem ersten Leitungswasserbecken auch ohne Impfung aus einem gut laufenden Becken gemacht - ohne Special Blend. Das hatte richtig heftig Kieselalgen und lange eine Bakterienblüte, die ich schneller hätte beseitigen können, wollte das aber nicht, das Becken war dann sehr gut!

Gruß, Nik

 

[chrishd]

Hi,
Also das mit dem im dunkeln einfahren versuche ich heute mal ohne pflanzen natürlich!
Ich möchte gerade ein kleines garnelenzuchtbecken ansetzten.
Das hat zwar ein sehr geringes maß an licht aber wird erst mal als prototyp herhalten!

Ich bin eigentlich auf die idee gekommen weil ich bald den scaperstank meiner freundin sTarten muss
Und da sie in sachen aquaristik ein totaler neuling ist soll das ganze natürlich reibungslos ablaufen!
Das ganze wird dann mit ada amazonia laufen und ich überlege mir ob ich mir dann das alle 2tage ww machen sparen kann sondern das becken in ruhe in einer 2-3wöchigen dunkelkur einlaufen lassen kann und eben in der zeit einfach 2 100%ige wasserwechsel mache so müsste die organische belastung nichts ausmachen oder?
Nach der dunkelkur werde ich dann nochmal 100%wasser rauslassen und das ganze mit in vitro pflanzen und mit 6h beleuchtungszeit starten!

Heute starte ich mal das zuchtbecken!
Ich glaub ich mach nachher mal ein seperates thema dazu auf !

Lg chris

 

[Benjo]

Hallo Chris,

ich habe vor gut einem Monat so wie du es vorhast ein Becken gestartet. Allerdings nicht komplett abgedunkelt, sondern nur mit Tageslicht. Seit ca. 2 Wochen wird auch mal, wenn ich zu Hause bin, beleuchtet. Seit gestern habe ich die Zeitschaltuhr aktiviert. Momentan sieht man noch keine Algen, nur Kieselalgen machen sich breit.
Allerdings habe ich beim Einrichten nicht sonderlich darauf geachtet, dass das Hardscape (Holz, Steine) frei von ausgedrockneten Moosresten ist, was eventuell ein Fehler war. Zum Teil, treibt das Moos, nach 1 Jahr Trockenzeit wieder aus
Das einzige was nervt ist die Kahmhaut, die wird aber zur Zeit immer weniger, mal schaun ob die ganz verschwindet.

 

[java97]

Hallo Nik,

Hallo Chris, hallo Kolja,

@Chris: Die Idee mit dem abgedunkelten Einfahren kam mir auch beim durchlesen.

mir nicht. Das große Problem ist, die paar Tage, die Pflanzen ohne Licht aushalten, bringen es nicht.

Vielleicht war ja auch gemeint, das Aquarium dunkel und ohne Pflanzen einzufahren und es erst dann zu bepflanzen, wenn sich ein Bifilm an Scheiben, Sand etc. etabliert hat?
Oh sorry, ich sehe gerade, das Chris das schon klargestellt hat...

 

[chrishd]

Hi,
So das becken läuft
60l in der mitte geteilt
Es läft über einen bodenfilter der mit luft betrieben wird und bee sand
Angeinft isses mit bacter 100 und backter ae
Auserdem ist auf jeder seite eine posthornschnecke
Wenn das licht in betrib ist (eine 15watt t8 röhre) kommt ne moosrückwand und ein bisschen javafarn rein!
Aber jetzt erst mal 3wochen warten!
Und jede woche füttern!
Hab übrigens destiliertes wasser benutzt und es auf 6gh 0kh aufgesalzen!

Das becken steht in einem raum den ich so gut wie nie betrete also ist der laden runter und licht aus
Mal sehn wie sichs entwickelt!

Gruß chris

 

[niko_texas]

Interesting research about biofilm:
http://www.streambiofilm.org.nz/project.htm

Also a few pages of a book about freshwater biofilms:
http://books.google.com/books?id=5xTfBVBuzSYC&pg=PA129&lpg=PA129&dq=freshwater+biofilm&source=bl&ots=QcnjryWLrx&sig=VE-rgosEehOGayMnCm4joFZqtcE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=AVx5VNjJLYabgwSkooGYDg&ved=0CDIQ6AEwBzgK#v=onepage&q=freshwater%20biofilm&f=false

--Nik

 

[Tigger99]

Nik,
Thanks for sharing :thumbs:
Very nice is as well a study from state University of Montana about Urea effects on Biofilm.
Thats why i start all the tanks with a high dosis of Urea and reduce the level of Urea later. This builds up a high efficent biofilm. Sideeffect is the support of N for the plants and a kh reduction. As well the N manuring is K reduce.
In the case the tank goes into wrong direction a hard dosis of Urea pushes it back into high effizient biofilm tank
I just call it the D K Hammer..

 

[niko_texas]

Dirk,

The use of Urea in the beginning is a very interesting thing. Here in America Urea is considered a dangerous fertilizer. And it is never used when you start a tank. The people that use Urea are more "advanced" American aquarists. That means that these are the people that try to find new fertilizers and see if they work better. But Urea is still considered a dangerous fertilizer (invites algae).

The thinking of American planted tank enthusiasts is very limited. It is all about Macro and Micro fertilizers and changing water. Few years ago Tobi posted on a few forums and there was very little interest about using different kinds of fertilizers, including urea. I do not think that Tobi even posts on American forums any more. It it just not interesting for most people here. That is very sad. I know a few great aquascapers that do not post on any forums. These are people with great knowledge but they do not want to share anything with people that do not care.

Can you tell me how do you start your tanks? Equipment, light periods, filters, etc. In America there is not a single good document that describes how to start a planted tank. The usual way is to put strong light, rich substrate, and a lot of fertilizers. Then you change a lot of water and deal with the algae by trying to improve plant growth. That's all. So it is interesting to hear how you use Urea but only after knowing everything else.

Nik,

In the last 2 days I translated and read the entire 18 pages of this thread. The automatic Google translation is very bad and it is very hard to understand it. I think that I understand the following:

To setup a very stable planted tank you need to do some things that do not guarantee that the tank will actually be stable. These things are:

1. The light period should be 6 hrs/ day
2. The biomedia in the filter should not be very big
3. Sand is used. Grain size -.4 - 0.6 cm. <-- is that "mm" or "cm"? I think it is "cm".
4. From the start - good fertilizer levels.
5. Something about mineral salt <-- I can not translate it well
6. Plants from a stable tank
7. Addition of bacteria additives (Microbe Lift - 2 kinds)
8. CO2 is not too high (around 20 mg/L)
9. KH and dGH no more than 5
10. Water change - as little as possible
11. Best to start the tank with very low fish load.


Please update and/or correct the above if I am missing something. Or if you have new ideas after 3 years of having this thread.

Here's something very interesting: While I was reading the 18 pages I realized that I myself started my first planted tank in 1981 following some of the rules you have!

In 1981 in Bulgaria my neighbour had about 10 planted aquariums. All of them were completely free of algae. There were never algae on the glass. The plants had to be trimmed every month. And this is what is interesting:

Tanks size:
20-35 liters

Substrate:
Inert gravel. Grain size - 3-6 mm.

Water and water changes:
Tap water. No use of chemical dechlorinator. Just leave the tap water in open air for 3 days. The tap water in Bulgaria in 1981 was extremely clean. It came from a nearby mountain. No body knew what is "drinking water" in a bottle.
The tap water was not soft, but it was not very hard. My friend changed only 1/5 of the water a week in some tanks. Not all tanks had water change every week. She told me that when she changes water the water in the aquariums becomes a little harder. But if she does not change a lot of water the water seems to stay soft.

Water parameters:
There were not test kits sold in stores. No pH meter. Nothing.
The water was pH>7. Probably pH=7.2-7.5 because the tap water was from the nearby mountain.
Also the water hardness (GH) was probably medium. When you washed dishes in the kitchen there were no salt deposits on pots, pans, and dishes but the dish soap did not bubble up very well.

Fertilizers:
No.

Equipment:
-- CO2 - No.

-- Filter - No.

-- Water movement - No. Not a single aquarium had any water movement!

-- Air pump, air stone -No.

-- Heater - No. The tanks were heated only by the incadescent bulbs. The bulbs were very close to the water surface. But the bulbs were turned on only in the late afternoon. In winter the room temperature was always 20-23 degrees Celsius. So the tanks should have been about 19-20 at night and a little higher during the time when the light bulbs were on. In summer the room temperature was 20-26 degrees Celsius.

-- Light - Incadescent bulbs. 30 to 50 watts. The light from these bulbs was extremely yellow. All tanks were facing a window and there was a lot of diffused natural light. But not sun.

Fish:
Tetras, danios, cories, Rasbora. Most fish laid eggs every 1-3 months. Extremely vivid colors! In 30 years in the planted tank hobby I have rarely seen such healthy and intensely colored fish!

Plants:
Stem plants, Crypts, Echinodorus, Riccia, Fontinalis moss, Elodea. The plants had to be trimmed once a month!

Maintenance:
Never vacuum the bottom. There was mulm but never changing (never less or more).
The glass never needed cleaning.

Fish food:
The fish food never fell to the bottom. All food was eaten immediately.

Algae cleaning animals:
Only small red Ramshorn snails but not too many. No shrimp, no Otocinclus.


All 10 tanks were started with plants from the first aquarium. There was never an introduction of new plants from someone else's aquarium. The water in all 10 tanks was EXTREMELY clear. The tanks had no background paint and you could see the wall behind. The water was so clear that the tanks looked like there was no water in them!

My first aquarium:
I started my first aquarium using plants from the tanks of my neighbour! And advice from my neighbour. I think that means I used the same microflora, the same setup, and the same practices. In my first planted tank for 3 years I did not have any algae. Actually I did not even know how algae looked like. The only algae I had was on the glass. But they were very little - I cleaned them only once a month! But I could see through the glass perfectly at all times!

I used inert gravel. No water movement. No filter. No CO2. No air. I fed the fish so food never fell on the bottom (very small pieces of chicken breast, live tubifex worms). Water change - 1/5 a week. I had a heater (temp was 24 degrees Celsius). My tank was 30 liters and had 50 watts of incadescent bulbs for 8 hours a day. No fertilizers, no CO2. I had to trim the plants every week! The plants did not grow very fast but I had a lot of plant mass.

One day I went to the fish store and I saw a green plant that I liked so much. I asked and they told me that this was "algae"! I did not even know how algae looked like for 2 years!!!

I write all this because it looks like your ideas of setting up a stable and algae free tank make a lot of sense. In these old Bulgarian planted tanks we had:

1. Low light (but probably a good red spectrum!)
2. 3 cm deep inert gravel (3-6 mm grain size)
3. Very low fish load. Very clean feeding practices.
4. Plants from an established stable planted tank (=microflora)
5. Tap water supplied a little Ca and Mg but not too much. Always stable salt content in tap water.
6. Very small water changes.
7. Never introducing new plants from bad tanks.
8. No water movement (=very stable environment?)
9. No addition of any chemicals. No addition of any bacterial product. But we used live fish food (tubifex worms) which certainly introduces bacteria (maybe always the same kind).
10. No filters! Meaning that the ALL the biofilm was inside the tank!
11. Never vacuum the bottom. There was a little mulm (2-3 mm thick) but it never became more than that.

The topic of "microflora" establishment is very interesting! I know that most people are not very interested in it but this is the future of the freshwater planted aquarium. There is so little known about it. I hope that this discussion continues.

After reading these 18 pages (badly translated by Google) I started to think of starting a brand new tank using plants from my 7 year old extremely stable tank that I have here now. I will follow the ideas that you, Nik, have described here. I understand that there is no guarantee for anything but I think that the discussion makes a lot of good points and makes a lot of sense!

I also have another tank that I think is starting to become stable and algae free. The "secret" was that I stopped maintaining it for 3 months. There was one kind of algae that took over but the glass and equipment cleared of all other algae. Even the white disc of the CO2 diffuser became snow white (clean of bacteria)!. Last week I removed the big algae and now I see that the tank seems to be running very clean (just a little biofilm on the glass for 1 week!).


--Nik

 

[JasonHunter]

Hello Nik,

3. Sand is used. Grain size -.4 - 0.6 cm. <-- is that "mm" or "cm"? I think it is "cm".

-Nik

The grain size of 0.4-0.8 that you are talking about is indeed in "mm", not "cm".

Kind regards,

Jason

 

[niko_texas]

Oh, the sand grain is only 0.4 - 0.6 millimeters!? That is VERY small! This is interesting to me.

I do not think that a single planted tank enthusiast in America uses such small grain substrate. We believe that small grain substrate clogs up (plugs up) and only anaerobic processes take place. We believe that small grain substrate leads to accumulation of H2S (Sulphur Dioxide).

But also there are not many discussions about the role of the substrate. Here in the USA most people consider the best substrate to be ADA AquaSoil. All tanks that have AquaSoil and have problems (algae) are treated with more water column fertilizers, more water changes, and making sure that the CO2 is stable at 30 mg/L. So the substrate is not viewed or discussed as an important place where microorganisms actually help the tank function well. Also I do not think that most people actually realize that the roots supply Oxygen to the substrate.

If we do not use AquaSoil then the advice is to use gravel size of 2-6 millimeters (0.2 - 0.6 centimeters). Simply because it will "not plug up". There are no clear guidelines about vacuuming the substrate. Some people vacuum some do not, but that is not based on any logic other than "I have some dirt on the bottom every week that's why I vacuum."

As you see - some of the discussion on this German forum are interesting to me because of the different approach to things that we, here in America, don't discuss often. Examples of such topics are organics, substrate, tank stability, and also water flow rate and water flow pattern - all of them connected with the function of the biofilter/biofilm.

--Nikolay

 

[nik]

Hi Nik,

in general, I try to show aquarists such stable and algae free tanks, but I think, a lot of them can't believe! IMHO there is no further thread like this one. It's more to share and collect experiences related to microbiology.


Just comment the quotes ...

1. The light period should be 6 hrs/ day

Yes, until the tank is stable or in case of problems.

2. The biomedia in the filter should not be very big

It depends! It's relative-filtering. Favorable a tank is started with less organics and than less filtermaterial till nothing is needed. Sometimes, when diffuse problems appears, it's worth a try to increase filtermaterial.

3. Sand is used. Grain size -.4 - 0.6 cm. <-- is that "mm" or "cm"? I think it is "cm".

0,4-0,8 mm. Important is washed sand, it avoids organics in the sand. There is one other reason to use sand. Gravel, as you usually use, may work like a filter. Because of that I like to minimize the impakt of filters to fertilization. With less filtering you get a closer feedback from your plants after fertilization. Mostly I'm fertilizing only by looking for the plants, Seldom is a need to measure.

4. From the start - good fertilizer levels.

Yes

5. Something about mineral salt <-- I can not translate it well

It is normally used for saltwater tanks. It contains micronutrients, Ca and Mg and is without NaCl!
I use it to raise micro nutrients and Mg. I'm sure there is something similiar in America.

6. Plants from a stable tank

the easiest way.

7. Addition of bacteria additives (Microbe Lift - 2 kinds)

Not really, only if you don't have good plants.

8. CO2 is not too high (around 20 mg/L)

Some guys are using higher levels of CO2 to avoid problems, but in my opinion it is better to face the problems and have the possibility to do something against.

9. KH and dGH no more than 5

KH not more than 7. It's correlated to the level of CO2. dGH can be higher.

10. Water change - as little as possible

No, in case of problems it makes sense to reset water to a defined status with big water changes of 80% or more. If a tank becomes stable, than there is less need to change water.

11. Best to start the tank with very low fish load.

it depends to the given food. it makes less difference if organics (food) are mineralized only by microorganisms or fishes and microorganisms. The amount of organics is important not the number of fishes.

Sorry, I'm short in time. I can't assume to all, although it's worth.

Regards Nik

 

[niko_texas]

Nik,

The topic of how the planted tank is impacted by microorganisms is not just interesting. For the future well being of the planted tank hobby we all must know more about the microorganism dynamics in a planted tank.

From what I read in the 18 pages of this thread and also from the few scientific articles about biofilm in natural bodies of water that I read it is very much impossible to specifically outline what species of microorganisms will ensure an algae-free and stable planted tank. But what I can say for sure is that many people have seen aquariums that are algae free and stable.

I assume that professional aquascapers that post many pictures of clean aquariums can really throw some light on the topic of microorganisms in the planted tank. But such information maybe a commercial secret. Or, as in the case of the brothers Senske in the USA (http://www.aquariumdesigngroup.com/#s=0&mi=2&pt=1&pi=10000&p=2&a=0&at=0) it seems that the maintenance of algae-free and stable aquariums could be a question of practical experience and "feel" coming from working with many aquariums for many years.

Either way not a single person in the planted tank hobby - professional or not - can deny that at times planted tank problems can not be explained with the usual factors - fertilizers, water changes, equipment, and maintenance. It is hard to deny that the dynamic microbial ecosystem that exists in every aquarium must have a fundamental role in way the tank develops. The results of all adjustments of fertilizers, equipment, maintenance, etc could be also explained through the microbiology of the tank. It is very strange that we all know so little about it. And to me personally it is even more strange how few people are interested in this topic.

As I type this I may have another super-stable planted tank developing. This 90 liter aquarium was neglected for 2 months. No water changes, no CO2. Just adding RO water to compensate for evaporation and using frozen Tubifex worms to feed the fish. Algae developed on the glass, bottom, and on the plants. But one species of algae dominated and about 1 month ago the entire tank became extremely clean. The algae on the glass disappeared, the bacteria on the CO2 diffuser disappeared, the algae on the filter pipe disappeared too. The dominant algae occupied about 1/3 of the tank for 1 month. 5 days ago I removed the algae and started to run a very light stream of CO2. No other interventions (no water change, no fertilizers). Today, 5 days later the aquarium is exceptionally clean! Look at the video I took 1 hour ago and also at the pictures:

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLedi1DlWcM&feature=youtu.be

Pictures:
https://plus.google.com/photos/111646610078083070168/albums/6088050634003547185?banner=pwa

The clean tank above can be explained as a result of the dominant algae utilizing all resources that allowed for algae growth. But then why after 5 days of CO2 supplementation the algae did not return? I still feed the fish (so there is a little pollution), and the Crypts actually release Oxygen bubbles (you can see that clearly on the video!). Also I see a new leaf on the small Bucephalandra which appeared in the last 3 days. Crypts do not release Oxygen if there is not enough nutrients. A Buccephalandra does not grow in a nutrient poor water. So there are quite a few resources for the plants AND algae to grow. But from what I see now the algae is not returning! Here's the interesting part:

5 days ago when I removed the dominant algae I started to see a very thin brown-grey film growing on the glass. It was soft and very easy to remove. I left the film develop and cleaned it on day 4. I really believe that this was a true biofilm and that this same film is now on the plants, gravel, and the filter pipe. I think that it makes sense to say that this film is what is keeping this tank free of algae for now.

In the last 1 year I have noticed a predictable development in this same tank. I stop the CO2 and let the tank get full of algae for 1 month, then clean the algae and run CO2 again. Initially the tank stays clean and the Crypts grow very well. But after about 10 days the Crypts stop releasing Oxygen and some of their leaves deteriorate (melt, fall apart). Every single time on day 3 after the Crypts start to melt I see algae! I have done this 3 times in the last 1 year. But this time I am running much less CO2 - trying to keep everything slower. Also I am using a liquid additive that is supposed to grow an invisible amount of Diatom algae which outcompete all other algae but never become visible. In the last 5 days I have added only 4 ml. of this product (the name is "Nualgi").

So: Fertilizers are needed to maintain the Crypt healthy for longer than 10 days. Here I have come to the conclusion that I read in your thread:
1. An algae free and stable aquarium needs both fertilizers AND microorganisms.
2. The speed of the development should be slow (no sudden increase of CO2 and fertilizers).

--Nikolay

 

[niko_texas]

Nik,

It was interesting to read that you are trying to reduce the role of the substrate in the biofiltration. That is the first time I read something like that. To me the biofilter (canister filter or substrate) is not really needed BUT if there are problems with the tank the biofilter serves as a buffer and takes care of the problems.

In one of my aquariums the canister filter broke and I ran the tank perfectly fine without a filter. Just a pump to move the water. There were no fish in the tank, there were Amano shrimp, and the tank had been running clean for about 5 months. On day 2 after the filter broke I noticed that all plants started to grow a little faster. That was the only change in that aquarium. The substrate was inert gravel with grains of 2-6 millimeters in size. So yes, I do believe that an aquarium without a biofilter is possible. What I want to know is how to make it stable so there is never a need for the biofilter to help with anything. This discussion is exactly about that! Thank you for that.

I really like the idea of adding plants (biofilm) from a stable tank to a new tank. But I think that it is a good idea to also add bottom dirt (mulm) or canister filter dirt to a new tank. About 9 years ago a person that had never had an aquarium before asked me for advice how to start his first aquarium. I gave him some mulm from the canister filter of an old established tank (tank had some algae but not much), plants from the same tank, and told him to buy Amano shrimp. 2 months later I asked him if he had any algae. He did not know what "algae" was!

Also about 4 years ago our local aquatic plant club setup a planted aquarium in a school. We used mulm from an old established clean tank and plants from 4-5 different clean tanks. When we added the mulm to the water we could not see anything in the new tank! But 1 year later the teachers in that school told us how clean and nice the tank has been the entire time!

Today I had to work on a tank that has Black Beard Algae. The water parameters are "perfect" but the plants do not grow well and the Black Beard Algae is always present. I added a few plants from a 7 year old stable and algae-free tank. Also I added bottom mulm from another tank - 9 year old tank that NEVER has any issues. I will see what will happen with the problematic tank.

To me all of these "stories" show one thing - that general rules to establish a stable and algae-free tank are not something impossible to define. It is not about specific microorganism species. It is about approaches that will ensure a gradual development of the microlife in an aquarium. These rules actually seem closer than I thought after reading the 18 pages in this thread.

--Nikolay

 

[JasonHunter]

Hallo Nik

Ich habe seit knapp zwei Wochen bemerkt, das der Sand an der Frontscheibe anfängt, grün zu werden. Bei näherer Betrachtung sieht es aus wie ein Gespinst aus Blaualgen. Der Sand ist Körnung 0.4-0.8mm und das Becken (30l) ist 1:1 so aufgesetzt und gedüngt gemäss deiner Anleitung zur Geringfilterung. Algen sind im Becken generell kaum vorhanden, hier und da eine Fadenalge aber nach über einem Monat Laufzeit noch kein Befall.

Ist das normal das sich dort Algen bilden oder darf das gar nicht passieren?

nach 48 Tagen

• JasonHunter
• 8 Dezember 2014

IMG 0557

• JasonHunter
• 8 Dezember 2014

Grüsse,

Jason

 

[kurt]

Hallo zusammen,
bringe mich mal ein…

Ist das normal das sich dort Algen bilden

@ Jason,
ja…

Hallo Nik
gemäss deiner Anleitung zur Geringfilterung.

Was wird aber unter Geringfilterung verstanden…
Im Grunde geht es bei üblicher Filterung um Siedlungsfläche für Mikroorganismen (schnellen aeroben Abbau),
Stickstoff, Oxidationsstufen, (Nachteil, Nährstoffe/Chelate werden auf oxidiert).
Im funktionierenden Pflanzenaquarium ist aber keine Filterung notwendig.
Durch eine Stickstoffabbauverlagerung ins Aquarium stehen die Pflanzenährstoffe länger zu Verfügung.
Wichtig ist dann aber Strömung als Nährstofftransportmittel.
Filter werden meist mit Standard Filtermedium (Watte, Schaumstoff) betrieben,
der Filterdurchfluss bleibt ungeprüft.
Welche Auswirkungen ein Filter aber hat kann man sehr gut mit einem Redoxmessgerät feststellen.
Stellt man in einem funktionierenden Pflanzenaquarium, (Filtermedium eingesetzt) die Filterleistung niedriger
steigt trotzdem der Redoxwert (Sauerstoffgehalt).
Das liegt an der besseren Verfügbarkeit von Nährstoffen.
Die Wirkung ist erkennbar an den Pflanzen, gleich steigende Abgabe von Sauerstoffblasen (Assimilation).
Die Auswirkung von Sauerstoffgehalt und Aquarien Milieu ist wohl auch größer als gemeinhin angenommen.
Schlechtes Aquarien Milieu (Mikroorganismen) im Becken durch vernachlässigten Sauerstoffgehalt?
Es läuft nicht rund, nicht erklärbare Probleme, gibt es ein Zusammenhang…?
Ein passender Redoxwert (Sauerstoffgehalt) macht vieles einfacher, (jedenfalls meine Erfahrung).
Man sollte Filterung und Strömung mal mehr Beachtung schenken.

PS, zu Sauerstoff:
Algenbekämpfung mit H202 (Wasserstoffperoxid) von Olaf-Peter/kiko
Was passiert da letztendlich wirklich?